Modeling & Graphic Design for a Modern Landfill

Here i am going to be selling a nerf p90. You have to make a p90 as a 1-1 replica with custom nerf magazines that look exactly like a p90 magazine. Since im selling it you have to make every item from scratch. This is a brushless build which will use this websites flywheels, and motors, and they have designs for the flywheel cage (closest spacing 39mm, furthest spacing is 40mm) it will have an oled screen powered by the arduino uno. On the butt of the stock, it’s magnetic which can be taken off (just the grip part) and there is a little battery tray which connects to a xt60. The tray can hold pretty big lipo batteries and is easy to pull off. This will shoot half length darts, and the flywheel cage is NOT going to be horizontal because the blaster would be the normal, clean look then this glob of spacing that looks ugly so they will be vertical with NO extended parts for holding the flywheels. The pusher motor can handle 3s-4s lipos with a max of 35 DPS. Next to the oled screen will be a knob that can be pressed down and turned infinitely to the left and right. This will be used with the oled. There is a housing for the uno, that holds all wires comfortably with little holes that they run through and there is a cap to it so once you remove the cap then you remove the uno and wires. I am righty so if you put the blaster on my shoulder like i will shoot it since its on my right arm, the space between the stock will have the screen as well as the knob closer to the magazine side not closer to the butt stock. If you have any questions or need pictures for information message me but here are the links you need, and my description for how you need to code the arduino and oled. Motor: https://kellyindustries.us/collections/flywheel-parts/products/plus-motor-brushless ESC: (2x) https://outofdarts.com/products/brushless-esc-30a?_pos=1&_sid=0a5d0f477&_ss=r Flywheels: https://kellyindustries.us/collections/flywheel-parts/products/daybreak-wheels-for-plus-motors-brushless Oled: https://www.cadcrowd.com/safety?go=https%3A%2F%2Fnewhavendisplay.com%2F2-7-inch-white-graphic-oled-module-with-capacitive-touchscreen%2F&signature=d0efa83745f841afa00b312f00673b3c86ca6a5d91e63154abd7c7a556321da5 Arduino: https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-uno-rev3 knob: you find a suitable one OR design one. Some useful sources (keep in mind one of these has a normal nerf magazine i want mine like a normal horizontal p90 magazine with the circle https://www.instagram.com/rraijjar/ https://www.printables.com/model/129568-real-files-n90-wip-by-sch00f mine will look more similar to rajjars Oled description: The oled screen would show these features. My oled has buttons that you can press with your finger that do actions. So theres going to be 5 buttons that you can click on (ammo counter, select fire, FPS, DPS, Lipo Warning, Save and Load. Here is the function for everything: ammo counter makes it so you select the amount darts in the mag and counts them as you shoot it. It has several modes made once you click it like (tachi, koda, talon (15) talon (18) which when you click it it selects your magazine type. Tachi holds 29, koda holds 22, and you get the 2 talons. There’s a (+) feature where you can use the knob which when you scroll left it lowers the number, when you scroll right it increases it, and then you can press on it to select it. Then you can name it with a small keyboard and a text box telling you what to write. You can use your fingers but the knob will work with everything. When you select a magazine type with your finger or with the scroller, it brings you back to the main screen and gives a quick pop up message saying in bold with a square around it that everything else disappears and says if you press lets say koda, it will say Successfully chosen “koda” then it says auto exited. Then for the next button, keep in mind since theres the 5 buttons, 2 on top 3 on the bottom, the scroller will highlight them if your on it and if you are on the last one of the top, and scroll to the right if your on the top right button then it brings you to the bottom row. This works with every corner. On to the next button which is select fire. When you click or press on it, then it has 3 buttons, Single Round, Burst round where right after it says if i chosen 3 round burst it will say Burst (3), and then full auto. In the bottom right there will be a mediumly sized button saying “edit” where it edits your burst fire where you can pick from 2 to 5. Then after hitting edit and selecting it, you press the number and it brings you back to the select fire screen where it hasn’t chosen anything yet since you only edited the burst. If i chose 4 round burst, then it will say Burst (4) and then you can press any of the 3 buttons and that will select it bringing you back to the Home Screen and saying that you chose lets say burst (4) and auto brought you to home. For the next button, FPS, when you select it, there will only be one button. When selecting the edit button in the bottom right corner of the screen, it will show a percentage of the power that the flywheels are spinning at. If mine is at 65% power, on apple devices, how for stop watch or clock how your number is bright and the rest of the numbers below and above it get darker and darker. So thats what it will be like so you can select any power by turning the knob to the left or right where the least number you can pick is 15% and the max is 100% after hitting 15%, and try to scroll down lower, a red sign prompts up that 15% is the lowest power you can go and dont scroll down anymore. Same for hitting 100%, so on the arduino, these all do something so 65% makes the flywheels spin 65% speed. After clicking your number lets say 65%, then you will exit the editor and still be on the fps screen mode and click the fps button which will say fps (65%) then click it and it says the message. For our next button, DPS, this controls the darts per second this will do. Same with fps, lowest is 15% and 100% is the max with the red screen. Exiting the editor and back to the Home Screen and to the next button. “Lipo Warning” is our next feature that will detect if you put anything more or less than a 3s lipo It will tell you to unplug your battery and put a 3s lipo in, and thats the only supported battery type. Then it says this may break the blaster. That’s not even pressing the button. Pressing the button tells you how many volts are left in the lipo and when to charge it if it gets below 11.3 volts. After 10 seconds it automatically shuts off. For our last button, “save and load” save and load is a button that when you press it, it has 2 buttons on it saying save, and the other button is load. When clicking save, it saves everything you did and all your settings, and makes you write a name for the save slot. Then theres an enter key and i forgot to say but for the ammo type button like the magazine, theres a delete button, space bar, capital key, and enter key. No special eaters allowed, only letters and numbers. After hitting enter, it says in a popup successfully saved and created slot “” with the name so if my name was nerf battle 1 then it would say successfully saved | created save slot “nerf battle 1” you have a total of 10 slots. For load, you just click load and can scroll through all your saves and under the name will say what you picked so under nerf battle 1, in smaller writing will say 4 round burst, koda mag, and then your fps and dps percents. And yeah thats about it if i make some small changes or if you need something to be changed thats fine. Also when you plug in your lipo, everything gets ready, and the screen turns on when you plug in your battery, and click the knob once, or touch the screen. When it turns on it will say im still working on the design GV, with the GV having small letters in between so my name is (Gavin Vanguard), but the capital letters will be bigger and the inside letters will be like 0.35 of the size of the actual big letters. THE IMAGE I PUT IS LIKE THE N90, WHICH HAS A VERTICAL MAGAZINE. YOU ARE DESIGNING A SPECIAL ONE THE LONGEST I CAN MAKE THE CONTEST IS 30 DAYS BUT YOU HAVE 100 DAYS.

I am a small independent self-publisher and the author/artist (Photoshop) for the Book (but that is the limitation of my design/technical expertise). This is a 3rd Printing of the book (40th Anniversary Edition) ©1982, 1994, 2022). I Need to contract with a good (possibly more competively priced) STL designer. I am going to start a Kickstarter Campagin to solicit presales for the STLs associated with this book *(and possibly do a jont-venture and/or profit share arrangemnt with the STL Designer(s) I select). (The Book has over 80+ Dragons and their included photos) *I can share samples of interior Artwork to aid in concept and STL design Anyone interested please submit a sample of the design you create based on (photo supplied below - a more simple design IMO)). Also submit a portfolio of simialr works. Thank you for your time and efforts.

The underwater drone is modular and autonomous. Users can assemble it from different modules fitting to each other similar to Lego pieces. Core modules are: stern with cameras and sensors, bow with propulsion system, battery, sonar, basket, a continuous robotic arm. It can work: with or without tether and recharge itself autonomously, has multiple internal navigation systems, has two independent moving cameras and lights enabling him to observe two things at the same time. The modules should be presented on the principles "Rubix cube". At this stage we are focusing on design and creativity, no need to include moving parts, they are a bonus. Must be highly visible in the water.

it is a box, come with 2 pcs 18350 batter and get a LCD dispolay to show the power capacity and alos on the box there are 3 buttons, one for switch on/off, and 2 for adjust specifications, if not 2 buttons, could be 1 pole or other design for adjust. also we need a connect on box to connect other device, it is kind of screw thread connection.

Working on a survival oriented product, Looking for a professional preferably with experience in the niche to finalize a design and make realistic HQ renderings of the finished product/product parts.